The house of Chanel remains in a state of uncertainty. Without a creative director since the summer, the fashion world is abuzz with speculation about who will take the role. While the excitement surrounding the potential successor is palpable, it shouldn’t overshadow the fact that the in-house design team, known as the Creative Studio, has done an exceptional job in the meantime. For Spring 2025, the collection was both fresh and wearable, with an undeniable sense of fun.
Feathers, neon knits, embellished jeans—this collection brought back that playful spirit Chanel is known for. Though it is a luxury brand with a couture legacy, at its core, Chanel has always embraced the idea of playfulness, a quality Karl Lagerfeld masterfully captured. Even with his extravagant show settings—from airplane hangars to grocery stores and ski slopes—his garments were always about evoking wonder.
Last night in Hangzhou, the Creative Studio presented its Pre-Fall 2025 Métiers d’Art collection, celebrating the skilled artisans who collaborate with the house, including the Maison Lesage embroidery atelier and Atelier Lognon, a pleating studio dating back to 1853. While the Métiers d’Art show always highlights Chanel’s commitment to craftsmanship, last night felt like another triumph for the Creative Studio in pushing the brand forward.
The show took place by Hangzhou’s West Lake—a tranquil, misty body of water that set a romantic backdrop for the winding docks forming the runway and the pianist performing on a rounded central stage. VIP guests like Tilda Swinton, Lupita Nyong’o, Wim Wenders, and Lucy Boynton arrived by boat, and once the show began, they were further drawn into the dreamlike atmosphere by the sound of traditional drum beats.
The collection featured luxurious tweed coats in icy blues and shimmery blacks, paired with skirt suits, some of which were layered over bright, blossom-printed bodysuits. The deep blues and metallic blacks paid homage to the Coromandel screens that inspired the Creative Studio, as Gabrielle Chanel was a passionate collector of these lacquered, intricately painted Chinese artworks.
Despite the opulence of the embroideries and knits, there was an effortless elegance to the collection—a glamorous nonchalance. A pair of jeans styled with a classic Chanel jacket or a gleaming gold suit with a loose, cropped fit embodied the essence of relaxed luxury. These couture-level pieces possessed no trace of preciousness, effortlessly blending beauty and wearability. They are otherworldly creations grounded in an inherent sense of cheeky cool—an ideal formula for the brand now and for whoever steps into the role of creative director at Chanel.
