It was 2015, at the height of Phoebe Philo’s Céline reign, when I first spotted her lace-trimmed, silky dresses and tank tops on the runway. They had a nostalgic ’90s vibe, but Philo’s modern touch elevated them. Rendered in shades of black and white, the pieces were styled with sharp, A-line coats cinched at the waist, flowing white trousers, and utilitarian Chelsea boots in rich red and jet black. I admired the way the models exuded quiet confidence, wearing delicate dresses paired with tough, durable boots—a perfect fusion of masculine and feminine.
That’s the brilliance of Philo’s designs: her ability to blend confident, self-assured dressing effortlessly. Her styling made lace feel versatile, walking the fine line between nightwear and daywear, allowing the wearer to step out into the city with poise, no matter the time of day.
Now, a decade later, I’m seeing lace-trimmed dresses, tank tops, and skirts make a comeback, both on the runway and in stores. Contemporary labels like Baum und Pferdgarten and Australian brand Sir are offering satin and hammered silk pieces with lace hems. On the runways, Gabriela Hearst, Michael Kors, and Undercover have all presented their own take on lace.
The beauty of these pieces is their versatility. For a night out, style a silky dress with tights, heels, and a sleek wool coat. For the office, layer a lace tank under a structured blazer with tailored trousers and kitten-heel boots. And for the weekend, channel Kate Moss in her ’90s grunge era by pairing a slip dress with combat boots and a shearling coat.