The invitation stated "Black Tie."
Giorgio Armani, a man who never does anything by halves, spared no expense for his first show in New York in a decade—and he made sure we all dressed accordingly. Even without the dress code, it would have felt wrong not to dress up in honor of the designer who redefined sleek, sensual glamour. Last night, at The Park Avenue Armory, we gathered to pay tribute to the maestro.
At 90 years old, Mr. Armani remains a visionary, someone who built an empire based on the belief that everyone should look and feel their best at all times. The house codes he established have shaped a modern wardrobe that is as sharp as it is practical, sophisticated yet wearable. As he told Bazaar contributor Osman Ahmed in our October issue ahead of his big return to the U.S., "America, and New York in particular, is where I found my first real audience—a whole generation of men and women eager to represent themselves in a new way."
He has always believed in living in that beauty and sophistication. Coinciding with the runway show, the opening of a massive new Armani building on Madison Avenue was celebrated, housing a restaurant, store, and Casa Armani-decorated residences.
Last night, guests gathered at the Armory for a double-header Armani extravaganza: a party to celebrate the new building (Chaka Khan performed!) and a presentation of Mr. Armani’s Spring 2025 collection (he skipped the Milan calendar this season to show in New York). Guests entered the Armory to find it transformed into a film noir-inspired train station, with a giant "GA" logo clock hanging above the room and a bar at the center serving champagne. There were editors in black velvet tuxedos, a Spanish princess in a floral applique bolero and matching gown, and Huma Abedin in a beaded top and silk trousers. As guests mingled in their finest Armani, a loud train whistle blew, signaling the start of the show. A curtain lifted, revealing the runway, where celebrities like Amanda Seyfried, Brie Larson, Brooke Shields, and Pamela Anderson were seated in ivory club-car-style booths, surrounded by small tables, lamps, and a matching cream-colored carpet.
As the show began, the clothes immediately commanded attention, eclipsing even the sleek spectacle. The runway showcased Mr. Armani’s signature wanderlust influences, from Eastern and desert inspirations to exotic embroideries, oversized polished suits, and fluid fabrics. Each of the 89 looks conveyed a sense of freedom and movement—a man’s knit tie seemed swept back by a gust of wind, while a woman’s fringed skirt, crafted with Armani’s trademark precision, flowed with effortless grace.
Unfettered elegance, as always in the Armaniverse, was on full display. The designer presented a series of blush-beige looks, including a bloomer-bermuda hybrid and draped dresses, all molded perfectly to the body. The show opened with a model followed by a man dressed as a train porter carrying suitcases and closed with a woman in a sheer, 1930s-style beaded tank gown, trailed by three dashing men in suit jackets adorned with crystal lapels.
Cinematic, playful touches are as much a part of Mr. Armani’s language as his chic, effortless clothes, and last night’s collection felt like a love letter from the designer to himself, to the iconic brand he’s cultivated, and to the journey that has defined his four-decade career. As Mr. Armani’s show notes read, this collection was about traversing "an era full of visions and memories, merging with various styles and ways of dressing, and once again speaking to the present."
That’s the magic of Mr. Armani: creating timelessness while continuing to evolve, no matter the time, age, or place. In New York last night, we dressed appropriately to celebrate the novelty of Armani, but more importantly, to honor the inimitable force behind it all—a man for whom black tie isn’t just a dress code, but a way of life.